Collection Autumn/Winter 2013

Sophistication paired with easiness has a new gardener – and her name is Vanessa Morin. Being a rebel has never looked so glamorous and accessible before.
The latest VANESSAMORIN collection is a work of handcraft, knowledge and most importantly, love and care for those who wear it. The inspiration comes from the most disputed decade of the last century, the 60s, when the energy of a whole generation came to a head in a long fine flash, for reasons that nobody really understood at the time.
Just imagine Jackie O. being transferred into today’s time, and Kate Moss wearing with her own “I don’t care“ twist – and the perfect essence of the collection has no longer need to be explained.

The London Modernists known as the Mods, shaping and defining popular fashion for young Brits while the trends changed more frequently than ever before in the history of fashion - and stayed longer than anything else are the key to understand Vanessa today.
The Mods counterpart – the rockers or the leather boys – play an important role too. Members of a biker subculture in England of the 50s and 60s wore functional clothing such as black leather jackets and motorcycle boots, and were considered as out of touch by the Mods.
The combination of two contradictive subcultures forms an inspiring source and a fresh, intriguing take.
Dissociative identity disorder becomes a perfectly shaped ideal place and identity in the world of VANESSAMORIN 2013 – strong, feminine, easy and free of all prejudices and clichés.

Her colours are natural and diverse: white, ivory, gray and black, combined with variety of green - emerald green and olive - and range of blue from petrol navy to purple and finally to dark navy.
Unique, in-house designed prints complete this visual experience. Photographic play with negatives and positives in the form of spots on t-shirts and longsleeves brings a touch of streetwear, and different shades of green as peacock prints on silk tank tops round the glamour elements of the collection.

 

Vanessa is fascinated by the natural play fabrics move when put into a garment. As a result we no longer see traditional silhouettes and shapes but rather an alternative, elegant way pieces transform into the wearer’s version. There two clear thoughts and directions forming this year’ collection: lover’s items vs. everybody’ darlings. The only difference is execution through colours, shapes and fabrics. Play with different results in elephant skin structured fleeces and geometrically patterned cotton, skin like cupro and micromodal jerseys caresses the skin and delicate pleated fabrics give an additional three-dimensional effect.

The sub-cultural references are applied to a multi-layer structure of the garments; sophisticated details reflect this contrast. Core of the collection are trench coats, classic on the front and ultra-modern with a bit of extravaganza in the back. Overlaps are applied to softly draped biker jackets, wrap pieces, bomber jackets and pants with piping details inspired from bikers clothing, olive and purple navy coloured parkas and plissé waistcoats, belted kimono-like shirts, blazer-coats easily transferring into an elegant A-shaped over-piece and matching pants in the classic shape that both can also be more avant-garde if produced in a unique jacquard version. This is the DNA of VANESSAMORIN – she can play with both feminine chic, classic shapes and colours and be a modern rebel at the same time. She produced her own dyed-garments applying special effects on fabrics and colours, making one and each piece to a solid wearable collector’s item.

The most graphically significant element in her collection might have been the slash of free fabrics fall that split formal and elegant and easy. Can deepness and intellectuality be uplifting and fun? VANESSAMORIN is the proof.